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The definitive guide to stylish outdoor spaces, with garden tours, hardscape help, plant primers, and daily design news. Alternatively, creating a soakaway may be the answer. This requires a large hole at the lowest point of the garden and filled with rubble or broken bricks, and then covered with 300mm of soil. The soakaway will need to be quite large to have the desired effect – up to 1.8m (6 ft.) deep and the same across. There is not always a need for underground pipes to a soakaway although on land that has insufficient gradient to drain into a soakaway naturally, underground drain pipes of some sort will be required. Both clay and plastic pipes are available – the latter being easier to use and lighter to handle. The definitive guide to stylish outdoor spaces, with garden tours, hardscape help, plant primers, and daily design news. Starred Review. This encyclopedic collection of gardening advice is, in the Rodale tradition, purely organic, albeit with a no-nonsense, 21st-century attitude. Extensive attention is given to tantalizing techniques such as cover cropping and dealing with deer damage (including what to protect, repellants and scare devices, and 10 kinds of antideer fences). The vegetable entries are equally comprehensive, with sections detailing “Crop Basics,” “Secrets of Success,” “Preventing Problems,” “Regional Notes” and “Troubleshooting Problems.” Drawings of pest-infested plants are helpful, and Bradley covers the gamut of solutions, from timed planting to crop rotation, barriers to repellants, wisely advising prevention as the first tactic and using (organic) insecticides as a last resort. The book is extensively illustrated with attractive drawings, although the choice of what to depict is sometimes mysterious; the image of flowering arugula is lovely, for example, although readers may wish they could see a picture of, say a disease called “aster yellows.” the “new growth… pale and bushy, forming a witch’s broom.” For any gardener who needs to keep track of “crucial care” for squash, how to control cucumber beetles with a vacuum cleaner or any of the myriad details that arise every day in the garden, this book is a must. (Feb.) Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved. The type of drainage used depends largely on the extent of the problem. If the water logging is not severe and there is only excess surface water, it may be possible to overcome the problem by shaping the garden surfaces so that the water flows off into ditches. These ditches should be 0.9-1.2m (3 to 4 ft.) deep, with sloping sides. I use woodchips too, Paul Gautschi gardening method, but I experienced much of what Jill and others have (so thank you Jill for blogging your experience). In retrospect, I need to add more chips during the year like you do, because they do compost during winter-spring so that by summer, there’s no longer at least 4″ of chips, such that the soil below got very dry still especially during our prolonged hot spell in PA. The very bad news is the chemtrails above in our skies, containing metals like aluminum which stunts plant growth. The metals rain down and pollute. Now Paul thinks the chips filter out pollutants, so I may add much more than 4″ next year. Still, the soil takes time to build up healthiness with this method. Why does an industry that should be green have such a horrible track record when it comes to plastic, and what’s a home gardener to do? I deep mulch, but I use my own herbicide free grass. I let the yard get embarrassingly long, then mow it. I let it dry, rake it, and deep mulch the garden. You can buy or make compost, but if you buy, it must be certified compost. If you use manure, use something like chicken manure because they don’t eat hay. The Grazon can persist through digestion unfortunately. I garden in raised beds in a suburban neighborhood. All six of my tomato plants did this last year. Couldn’t figure out why, since they had come from two different nurseries. Replanted tomatoes in the same spot, but late in the season, and they were fine. This year the tomatoes are going great, but the leaves of the potatoes in a wooden barrel curled in the same way. Few blossoms and zero potatoes. The really scary thing about this is that the only thing I had added to the tomato bed last year was manure from the big box store. And the potato barrel the year had mostly bagged garden soil, again from the big box store. When even the bagged, name brand products are contaminated, we have a very large problem that needs a lot more attention drawn to it. In the years I’ve been advocating for the deep mulch method of gardening, I’ve had a couple people ask if I’ve ever had problems using non-organic hay. We get our hay from a variety of sources, and looking back, I’m almost certain some of it had to be sprayed at some point. However, as I always had thriving gardens by using our compost and hay mulch, I figured people who were concerned about non-organic hay or non-organic animal manure were worrying unnecessarily. I was wrong. Here is a quick troubleshooting guide to common gardening mistakes. tui gardentui pettui at home What animal it might be will depend on your location. It is likely not a mole, because of its diet. Voles (similar to mice) dig shallow tunnels that run along the lawn, as moles do; these rodents can be destructive in the garden. Other small rodents, such as mice might be a possibility as well. Chipmunks also dig tunnels, although you might not see the tunnels running along the surface. Gophers leave mounds of dirt at tunnel entrances, but not tunnels along the grass. Large holes could be a woodchuck, but they don’t have shallow tunnels. Rabbits, crows, raccoons, squirrels, coyotes, deer . . . just about any animal that eats fruit as part of its diet will take advantage of a melon. Raccoons like melons (and corn) especially. What animal it is will affect how you protect the fruit. Good luck! While spotting a rat in the garden can be an unpleasant experience and they can damage fruit, vegetables, bulbs, plants, shed doors and wires, they should also be considered a serious health risk.  The problem with my garden is that I’m getting a new home and it doesn’t exist yet. Buy a packet of lucerne seed and grow a host of seedlings in trays or pots. Liberally plant those lucerne seedlings throughout your food garden. Legumes like lucerne offer three distinct benefits: This bestselling book has been fully updated to include the latest available practical remedies and solutions for your garden. As much as it pains me to say this, I would NOT use any more hay on your garden until you can absolutely, 100% verify the hay or field it came from has not been sprayed with any sort of herbicide. My biggest problem with my garden is trees! We have a shelterbelt around our whole acreage that includes several rows of trees which are beautiful but we get no sun! I am sooo grateful for this post! I have had “bad luck” with my tomatos for the past 3 to 4 years, and I could not for the life of me figure out what I was doing wrong! Now I see that I had done the same as you had, adding manure (from my neighbors aged cow manure pile) to our garden. I used to grow beautiful tomatos, and beamed with pride at my quarts of lovely canned tomatos lined up on my shelf, waiting to be enjoyed in the midst of winter! I guess pride came before the fall! LOL! I have tried everything I could think of to try to deal with the problem, even moving all my tomatos to big pots on my porch, BUT I was still using soil from my garden! AhHa! My mom had a bumper crop of tomatos this year, using big pots on her porch, but the only soil she used was Miracle Gro Moisture Control soil, and I am going to do this next year! I don’t like having to buy soil when we have access to all the free manure to amend our soil, but, in light of this info, I think that we may have to, at least for our tomato plants. I have not noticed any of my other plants having the problems like the tomatos, so at least my garden will not be totally unusable next summer. 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