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Send your gardening questions to Yard and Garden, ATTN: Dr. Curtis Smith, NMSU Cooperative Extension Service, 9301 Indian School Road, NE, Suite 112, Albuquerque, NM 87112. Curtis W. Smith, Ph.D., is an Extension Horticulture Specialist with New Mexico State University’s Cooperative Extension Service. New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. Paint walls and fences white to make space appear bigger, keep planting in borders low to make the garden seem wider, and go for a low-level chest storage unit instead of a tall shed. Search for the solution by plant type or by garden problem. You will find easily identifiable images of the most common problems. This then leads you to the best solution/s. If you are unable to find an answer, check our FAQs or Contact Us. It’s a small gardening world after all. Do you long for a beautiful garden but hate weeding? Are you intimidated by roses or worried about watering? Do your neighbor’s trees block your sunlight? Is your outdoor space too big? Too small? An awkward shape? Or maybe you just don’t know where to begin…  I drew a picture of a garden and a sidewalk being built around the outside. The height of the inside (garden) was 17 ft and the width was 20 feet. Then, I made a 3-foot corner around all four corners of the garden. So, the height of the exterior was 17 + 3 + 3 = 23 feet, while the width was 3 + 3 + 20 = 26 feet. So, the perimeter of the inside is 74 feet and the perimeter of the outside is 98 feet. I added these two to get 172 feet as the total perimeter. Inexorably, I deemed that 172 feet of lumber was needed for the perimeter of the walk. Is that safe to assume or am I misinterpreting the question/what it is asking for? I am getting a bit “tripped up” of the fact that the problem gave me that, “to make the forms for the cement, we will need to buy some 2-by-4-inch lumber.” This bestselling book has been fully updated to include the latest available practical remedies and solutions for your garden. It is guaranteed that there is at least one bucket such that it is possible to water the garden in integer number of hours using only this bucket. There were gardeners in the Bulkley Valley/Skeena Valley (BC, Canada) that used hay and straw/manure contaminated with Grazon (picloram) – widely used to combat broadleaf weeds. I was aware of that so could take precautions and did some testing with my straw for mulching and that I also use for my chickens. Everyone can do it at home to make sure it is not contaminated. Grazon has a long half life therefore gardeners in our area had to dig soil about 3 feet deep and exchange with not contaminated topsoil/compost mix and start new. Big job and sometimes quite expensive. Before adding compost/hay/straw/manure do the simple test and be sure your herbicide free Here is the link to an article explaining the bioassay method to test for herbicides http://northword.ca/features/environment/mean-manure-killer-compost-grazon-after-effects-in-the-bulkley-valley/ Hope this is of help! Monika My garden is overshadowed by trees The best way to maintain a healthy garden is to educate yourself and learn to identify common “bad bugs.” Inspect your garden regularly to detect problems early. The sooner a pest is identified the easier it will be to manage using earth-friendly methods. Below we’ve listed several garden invaders that you may encounter. Click on each pest picture for a description and our list of organic remedies. Im a product designer and am looking at the garden at the moment. It would be great if you could address your problem(s) on this thread, any problem big or small, weather its aches and pains or the lack of a piece of equipment. Thanks  • “Beyond the Basics” sidebars for those willing to go the extra mile to eradicate a problem in the garden in a safe and natural way Our pest and problem pages contain information on over 200 of the most frequently encountered garden plant problems by the Plant Doctors at the William T. Kemper Center for Home Gardening. I, too, know your pain and despair. We live on the western edge of Wyoming at 6000′. Our sons raise cattle, so left-over hay and manure from the cows and horses was easy to obtain. About mid way through the 2014 gardening season, after mulching my peas they just stopped. Hmm, must have been the heat. The beans were just a fair crop that year. 2015, no potatoes, no beans, no peas. They all came up beautifully, but when they started to put out roots – they became stunted, yellowed, twisted, and eventually died. The corn wasn’t bothered. Nor the pumpkin. I thought slugs, virus, disease, too much water. By the end of 2015, research was pointing to contamination. This year, began the same way. Transplants were healthy until put into the garden. Seeds germinate then look awful. After much research – I stopped using the manure tea (it seemed to be the worst culprit – maybe because it is concentrated). Planted all the radish seed I had. The ones I didn’t pick are the size of large potatoes and up to 4′ tall. Started more brassica transplants and planted them all over the garden. Interestingly, where I planted radishes or brassicas next to the peas, the peas actually produced a few peas and did not die immediately. Also, putting fermented molasses water on the potatoes seemed to help a little. We are now looking at cover crops as a way to help remediate. And all the wood stove ash will be dumped in the garden this winter. Kendra Wilson has access to some of the most remarkable gardens in England, while dissecting them for the online publication Gardenista. With experience as a writer, picture editor, and designer for Vogue, Condé Nast Traveler, and Observer Food Monthly, she brings her unique perspective to the way gardens look and why they work. Unfortunately, a lot of people start to think about composting in the Spring. They’re anxious to get out in the garden, have heard—or know—that compost is a great natural fertilizer, soil amendment and disease preventer, and want to get a pile going. But nine times out of ten—maybe more like 9.9 times out of ten—they don’t have THE most important ingredient: Shredded fall leaves. Good question– we have had slightly less rain this year– but I’ve watered sufficiently. And we’ve had other dry years where the garden still thrived, so it’s hard to say for sure. Laura is the Community Kitchen Garden Horticulturist at Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden. When she’s not working in vegetable garden, she enjoys spending her days at the river and checking out all of the new restaurants the Richmond food scene has to offer. I have used non-organic hay in the garden that I know was sprayed with broadleaf herbicides for 10 years and never had a problem with my plants. Maybe the concentrations weren’t high enough. But, 3 years ago, a neighbor up the valley from us sprayed his fields with 2,4-D and within a week my 150 tomato plants looked just like yours do. I didn’t connect it until the next year when another neighbor sprayed his fields with 2,4-D and I lost my tomato plants again and all of my lettuce that was just starting to head, bolted. I started talking to people and doing research and apparently, certain types of 2,4-D can really drift given the correct conditions. It affects plants drastically just by drift. Maybe you should look into the possibility that a neighbor sprayed something like 2,4-D on fields or lawns. Once it affects the plants, thats it for those plants. I let mine grow but they put on little to no flowers or fruit. This year, I planted in the same spot and didn’t remove the plant residue last fall. I waited until a week after the neighbor did his spraying and then transplanted my plants. Bingo, I had no trouble with my plants and they put on a good crop for us. 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