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The first line of input contains two integer numbers n and k (1 ≤ n, k ≤ 100) — the number of buckets and the length of the garden, respectively. I have a constant battle with weeds in my garden. Sometimes there will be problems in the vegetable garden. There is always a cause and there is often a cure or control. The next phase of the lesson encouraged exploring different size gardens – first 6 plants … then 10 … then 20. Lots of work with materials and lots of recording. Some children gave up modelling and began drawing, especially when the number of plants got bigger. Wow, I am sorry to hear about your garden! I have also been using the deep mulch method for several years, but with our own hay, which hasn’t had herbicides on it other than the fast dissipating round up used on spots. I hadn’t had this issue, but I have been very mindful of it. I’ve had many more issues with the grass growing after the hay breaks down. It literally doesn’t matter how deep I put the mulch, we will have a bunch of weeds and grass. But the soil is rich! We live in southern Mississippi. We have plenty of stuff growing everywhere. You might do better with using the grass you cut out of your yard. Some gardeners have told me that the most effective deterrent is chicken wire covering the area where the cats are inclined to defecate. The wire discourages the digging and scratching which is part of feline behavior. The chicken wire must cover any area with clear, loose soil. It may be removed from that area permanently if the plants growing there do not develop thick stems which would be girdled by the wire. The chicken wire may be removed once the plants begin growing if the plants form a dense cover over the soil. If the cats have moved to a new area because of the chicken wire, they may not return. If the chicken wire cannot remain and the vegetation cover is not dense enough to discourage the cats, a coarse mulch may be used as the plants begin growing. It is the bare soil which is usually attractive to the cats. Wow, I am sorry to hear about your garden! I have also been using the deep mulch method for several years, but with our own hay, which hasn’t had herbicides on it other than the fast dissipating round up used on spots. I hadn’t had this issue, but I have been very mindful of it. I’ve had many more issues with the grass growing after the hay breaks down. It literally doesn’t matter how deep I put the mulch, we will have a bunch of weeds and grass. But the soil is rich! We live in southern Mississippi. We have plenty of stuff growing everywhere. You might do better with using the grass you cut out of your yard. Just as a weed is a plant out of place, insects in the wrong place are pests. Ants play a very important role in the ecology of your garden for good and for not so good. Wow! Now that has to be a very good advantage of having rabbits in your garden! I’m sure he’ll be a regular visitor now he’s found them! What a privilege! Good question– we have had slightly less rain this year– but I’ve watered sufficiently. And we’ve had other dry years where the garden still thrived, so it’s hard to say for sure. 2015 saw an eruption of mini volcanos. It’s the warm and wet weather that encourages them. And not just in the fields. There’s been way too much mole action in the garden too, and I’m fed up. One hill I could cope with. Two, even. But now there are three – as well as plenty of signs that he/she/they are digging under the flower beds. Which is not good. Not least because once they begin to breed there could be loads more. So leaving well alone was not an option. I wanted the mole/s out. My problem that I haven’t figured out yet is this: I planted my garden 6 weeks ago. I put out corn, purple hull peas, bush beans, potatoes, tomatoes, sunflowers, squash, cucumbers, and beet. Approximately 1/3 of everything is coming up. I see these little trails of semi-broken ground that appear to follow my rows and then skip to the next. I thought moles at first but the tunnels seem too narrow being about 1/2″ I have dug at the ends or beginnings of these trails and turn up nothing. I even replanted in the vacant areas only to have the same problem. Does anyone have any suggestions. Grass clippings from our yard is all I have used for years now. The clippings get dumped in a pile and left to dry out a bit first before I mulch with it. I only had a few weeds pop up here and there. Sorry about your tomatoes, Jill. Thanks for the information, and I’m interested to know what you find out with the testing. I haven’t had that particular problem, but I sure have enough other problems in the garden to figure out over the years. https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/special/organic/using-salt-to-kill-weeds.htm https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/weeds/what-is-flame-weeding-information-on-flame-weeding-in-gardens.htm https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/weeds/conventional-weed-killers.htm https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/special/organic/weed-it-and-reap-how-to-make-your-garden-more-appealing-without-chemicals.htm Jill, I’ve used the deep mulch method now for two seasons. A local tree company brings truckloads of wood chips to me free of charge whenever I need them. They are happy to have a place to dump the clippings so it’s a win-win. Of course there is no knowing what’s been sprayed on the trees (hopefully not any since it’s mainly trimmings from roadside power lines) but at least I know it’s not broad leaf herbicide that’s being consumed by grazing animals. The diversity of organic matter is also very beneficial to the soil and over time supports perennial vegetables, fruit and nut trees. It’s true there is a huge benefit to deep mulch gardening with the decrease in watering and weeding. There are other issues that I’m figuring out as I go along but so far so good and I plan to continue with this method. “Hang the garden makeover; anyone who favors natural, twiggy plant supports can have an authentic English cottage garden,” she wrote in an early post, which breezily laid out the history of the cottage garden, explained the differences among various willow arbors and supports, and offered design suggestions for incorporating same into a landscape. In under 500 words. Q. Mike: I’m hoping you can help kick-start a new program at our community garden. Historically, we’ve had one large cold compost heap that was an unmanaged eyesore. The “compost committee” has chosen to move in a new direction and have the individual gardeners create and manage their own composting. Some gardeners are planning to group together and build large 3-bin systems; others just want a small pile for their own 10 x 10 plot. Either way, we’re urging them to learn ‘hot composting’ techniques, as I know that compost that heats up quickly is far superior to the cold kind, and takes much less time to finish. Any advice to get us started on the right track? Everything looked fine when I first put them in the garden. I planted my tomatoes (Amish Paste) in a new spot this year– normally they are along my fence, but this year, I had more plants so I stuck them in the area I usually plant my onions. I mulched them and watered them, and sat back to watch them grow. When Apple first enabled third party applications on the iPhone1, they were accused by many of violating user freedoms by creating a walled garden, that being the requirement that all applications installed on the platform must be installed via their iOS App store2. 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